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Mr V’s Camino 2023
  1. Day 45 – O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostella – Arrival – 20.1km

    May 31, 2023 by gerryv

    The day begins as usual. Why change up the routine? The only difference is that almost no sleep was achieved. The brain was racing, the heart was pumping all night and the sleep never came. The adrenalin was flowing and it felt right to get going as quick as we could. The first few Km’s are through the stands of the eucalyptus plantations and the smell and fallen leaves on path make it very comfortable to start the early morning walk. It makes for a relaxed start.

    Knowing that we have spent the last 40+ days along this Way and it is almost at an end, brings an upwelling of emotions and I find myself having a little cry to myself and really feel a sense of completion and connection with the Way of St James. It has been a long Way and there have been countless connections with the countryside, the people of the Way, my fellow pilgrims, my wife and my God. I feel humbled by the experience and we even begin to plan our next pilgrimage – may be in 2028? Who knows?

    Anyway, we pass the airport in a thickening fog – we hear a plane take off, taking pilgrims onward after their Camions and reflect on our onward jouerney. We stop at the cafe “LAST 12km” for our last breakfast and cafe con leche along the Way. The nearby chapel of San Roque provides and ideal place to sit and reflect upon where we have come from and where we are gong.- I was very thankful for that opportunity. The quiet in the churches and chapels along the way have been a blessing.

    After that quiet moment , the final rush is on. The last 100km or so from Sarria have been busier than most days and the last 10kms now have certainly compressed the line of pilgrims. But we are all in good spirits and revel in the pilgrim camaraderie and experiences as we chat to many along the Way into Santiago.

    The final kilometres along the way start from Monte Gozo where Pope JP II visited on his pilgrimage to Santiago but the memorial has been removed. We find the new pilgrim memorial where we catch a glimpse of the spires of the cathedral through the distant mist and set off for the last 5km.

    It’s a pretty uninspiring walk through the outer suburbs and shopping complexes. The k’s pass quickly as our strides lengthen in anticipation and our goal is within minutes. To give some context it has been 785km since we left St JPdP some 45 days ago. The last few km’s to the square cannot come quick enough. As we enter the old town. It is not long before we hear the bagpiper welcoming the pilgrims through the arch at the entrance to the Praza Obradorio Catedral and the emotions being to rise. The arrival in the cathedral square is overwhelming. That little cry at the beginning of the day was nothing compared to the rush that comes over me and to see the number of pilgrims in the square experiencing the same emotions is comforting.

    There is so much to say about this arrival, but It is very hard to put in words. The feelings are unique. We spend some time in the square soaking up the atmosphere and reflecting on the achievement and journey. We trot off to the Pilgrim’s Office to collect our Compostellas – we are #647 & #648 of 1800+ pilgrims that registered their arrival that day.

    There is so much to say, but this is not the forum. We are excited to meet up with Maryanne and Kingsley who we met on our very first day (and now the last). We also meet Leanne and Lisa – 2 Aussies who we kept bumping into – and most surprisingly Danis and her mother (the German pilgrims we also met on our first night). We have been blessed by so many others and we hope the have found the same peace and resolution that I have in completing this pilgrimage.

    Oh! And what of Cathy and David? We had been keeping contact during the day. They started much later in the morning — we met up with them and celebrated later in the day. We were able to share two wonderful dinners together before we had to go our separate ways. Those were very special moments.

    Tomorrow we celebrate our pilgrimage and offer it to our God at the Pilgrims’ Mass. We pay our respects to St James before mass begins. We are blessed as the botafumeiro swings and the pilgrims rejoice.


  2. Day 44 – Arzua to O Pedrouzo – 1 to Go – 20.5km

    May 30, 2023 by gerryv

    The penultimate day has arrived. It is an eager wake-up and get ready for the day’s walk. Pack the packs, tie the shoes, check the weather and it’s off we go.

    It is hard to explain why the heart rate goes up without even expending any energy. I suppose the best way to explain this is in the way the mind works. For the last week or so, the emphasis has been more on the mental contemplation rather than the physical exertion. And once you wake up the mind starts racing. It is only until the shoes go on does the mileage come into consideration. It will be a longish day, but the profile is not too daunting.

    Mother Teresa said,” Let no-one come to you without leaving better and happier.” To reflect back, I would hope that the people we have crossed paths with have left “better and happier”. I know I have because of them. Upon reflection along this section , I wonder how all the people with whom I have crossed are faring – did/will they make it to their goals? Even though our paths have fallen out of sync, I still wish them all well.

    But, the path is lovely today. Clear skies but not too warm – beautiful farmlands and eucalyptus plantations along the way. It is easy not to focus on the physical. O Pedrouzo arrives sooner than expected, so there is plenty of time for a freshen up and a quick beer. The shared dinner with C&D and company was awesome – a real meat lovers feast. Cathy seems to have the inside knowledge on all the best eating and sleeping place. We are so glad we have been able to connect again – but not just for that.

    Can’t wait for tomorrow.


  3. Day 43 – Melide to Arzua – 2 to Go – 14.1km

    May 29, 2023 by gerryv

    Wow!! Thank you, say the feet. Only another relatively easy day for them and the rest of the body. I better not tell them about the last two days to come. It’s no longer about the distance for the legs that is the issue, it’s about the length of time the feet are in the shoes. Anything under 15km (about 5-6 hours counting stops) keeps them happy. Any more and they need some gentle persuasion to continue without complaint.

    Today is all about preparing the mind for the arrival to Santiago. Although there are still two more days walking after today, the arrival to Santiago is all I can think of. The walk feels very comfortable and there is little physical exertion to distract me from some mental and spiritual distractions. The long days now behind us, the excitement builds and the goal is within reach. Today I spent many moments thinking about those that we had met along the way and wonder how they have fared. Our stops seemed to go out of sync since Ponferrada and this is somewhat discomforting. But I need to focus on my achievement and that deadly sin of pride peeks out at times.

    The forest walk passes hidden pastures and leads us to Ribadiso which is a lovely place to stop at the shaded river crossing. We met up with C&D a few K’s back and were pleased to be able to spend some time walking with them. We shared a cold drink and bocadilla for lunch and some more stories of the last couple of days whilst we were “out of sync”. But some secret discussion is about a special celebration tonight at Arzua. It’s Narelle’s birthday and Cathy has a special contact in Arzua to provide a surprise at dinner. What a place to celebrate!! Feliz Cumpleanos, Narelle!!


  4. Day 42 – Palas de Rei to Melide – 3 to Go – 15.1km

    May 28, 2023 by gerryv

    My feet thank me from the moment we get up with only a 15km saunter today. I read once that the word “saunter” is derived from “saun“ = saint or sacred and “ter” meaning earth. So to saunter is to cross holy ground. This seems like a feasible explanation and it has certainly been a walk across a land that many pilgrims have seen as a spiritiual journey to a place of religious significance. Whilst we have been sauntering for the last 700km or so, it seems significant now as we close in on Santiago.

    The walk to Melide is not difficult and the previous evening storm again softens the paths and settles the dust. We stop at a beautiful “beer” garden for breakfast and are soon strolling in Melide around lunchtime. This gives us a chance to catch up on some washing before dinner. We miss C& D this evening but will probably meet up along the way tomorrow.

    An easier day – and the feet are rejoicing. Only 3 more sleeps.


  5. Day 41 – Portomarín to Palas de Rei – Fog and Sun – 24.6km

    May 27, 2023 by gerryv

    After another wonderful evening with friends and a relatively early night the day is a daunting one with a looming distance stretch for the pilgrims. I am not sure how these two long days got past the planning committee, but, after 40 days the body and heart are OK with it, however, the feet start to scream at you by the end of the day. “It’s OK, feet, tomorrow is a shorter day. I promise.”

    The day started with a dense fog after the storm last night, but at least it was dry and not too cold. The first few kilometres were filled with wonderful sights of a glorious sunrise poking up through the fog. The way is through paddocks of freshly sewn corn and the sound of “gun” blasts going off to scare away the birds ring out regularly along the trail. It reminds me of the “Hunger Games” when a cannon is sounded every time a “tribute” falls. Every time a blasts rings out across the fields, I pray that pilgrim has not fallen by the way.

    It’s a while before the fog gives way to the sun, which is a bit of a blessing. It keeps the way cool and “mysterious”. It makes the day special and something for which to be thankful It does warm up for the last few kilometres, but at least we get most of the way behind us before this.

    We also note that the start of the eucalypt plantations are beginning to pop us and this is very significant in later days. We won’t be meeting up with C&D tis arvo as they are staying short of Palas de Rei. I am sure we will catch up. to them tomorrow. We meet up with a retired English couple now living in Sydney walking with their son, Bernadette and Sean who we met back in Vega, and it is like meeting up with long lost friends – so much to share.

    4 DAYS TO GO!!!


  6. Day 40 – Sarria to Portomarín – The Final Countdown – 22.7km

    May 26, 2023 by gerryv

    Last night we met up with some very dear friends from the USA, Cathy and David, who we had met in 2015 on our Camino then. We have had good contact with them since and they spent some time with us in Australia on one of their holidays since. They brought with them a Godchild of Cathy and a granddaughter of David who had expressed an interest in accompanying them on Camino this year. The night was filled with chatter and memories of then and stories of how we were going now. The next 6 days and last 115km would be a wonderful time for us to walk with them also and spend some time renewing our friendships. Whilst already finding every 39 of the previous days very special, these last 6 will have that extra “je ne sais quoi” about them.

    The Camino provides long lasting relationships because it means so much to each pilgrim and the connections that are made are usually rooted deeply with a shared understanding of what we all go through. This common ground gives pilgrims the confidence to be open and honest to those we meet, no matter how fleeting that might be. But the ones that you keep running into forms a bond that connects you through the years. One day into Rabanal we met a Swedish folk singer and bumped into a few times towards the end and still have contact with her. She even showed us around Stockholm a few years later when we were travelling there. Check her on Spotify – if you have it – Annis Brander – we love her more than ice cream.

    The day is fairly easy, though the distance is on the end of the feet tolerance scale at 22+km. It’s mainly a beautiful day for walking though a short shower forces the wet weather gear out of the pack.

    Portomarín is a town that was built up on a hill when a dam was constructed down stream and the old town was flooded. Most notably was the church in the main square that was taken down brick/stone by stone, numbered and rebuilt on it new site in the main square – a very unique way to preserve history. Just to make the day a little testier, the new town is entered via a beautiful stone staircase – just what every pilgrim needs at the end of a long day.

    On arrival – the usual routine. But dinner again with C&D with a catch up of the day. It could be an early night as a thunderstorm sends all the pilgrims in the outdoor cafes scurrying for shelter or bed. It is the latter for us. Five days to go and the excitement in building.


  7. Day 39 – Samos to Sarria – More S&T – 14.8km

    May 25, 2023 by gerryv

    After.a relatively “easy” day yesterday we are off to join the throng in Sarria. This is said to be where the numbers of pilgrims grow exponentially as Sarria is the minimum distance one must walk to receive a Compostella. Albeit, we will worry about that tomorrow. We are excited about arriving in Sarria as we are reuniting with a couple from the US who we met on our first Camino in 2015. We have been in regular contact with them a look forward to sharing the final stages this year with them.

    The road out of Samos are very similar to yesterday — calm, peaceful, wooded with lovely oaks – but we fall for the same mistake of expecting a breakfast stop after a couple of hours walking. Again we are proven wrong and are left waiting for another hour or so for some sustenance. It come in the form of a Spanish “Big 4” camping ground with a great breakfast menu – tortilla Francesca con bacon, zumo de neranga y cafe con leche – with a little pastry treat thrown in as well.

    We have the wonderful opportunity to connect with family back home to wish our beautiful granddaughter, Freya, a happy birthday.

    From here it is a short walk, 5km, left to walk into Sarria. This town is the start of the bigger towns that have become the “stages” the pilgrims start to complete a Compostella. The old town sits on a hill overlooking a modern and clean newer area.

    After finding accommodation, freshening up – you know the routine – we settle in to wait for our US friends to arrive. It’s a great reunion and we share many memories over dinner. It’s not a late night as they have not stopped travelling since leaving the US.

    We have a long day ahead of us tomorrow.


  8. Day 38 – Triacastela to Samos – Stone and Wood – 10.5km

    May 24, 2023 by gerryv

    We have an easy couple of days, today & tomorrow, so with only 11Km to Samos, it’s a chance to turn off the 5:30am alarm and catch up on some zzz’s.

    Triacastela was a lovely little village and I have fond memories of finally finding a solution to my blister problem last time. But there are no issues this year and we head off to Samos – somewhere different. We look forward to a breakfast stop at the usual 5-8km mark, but nothing is open. So we venture further to the next village in the hope of a cafe con leche or something. No luck again. This continues till we get to Samos. Oh well – an early lunch maybe?

    The walk to Samos is lovely. We follow the river and then head up and down some hills. The paths are lined with stone walls as we thread our way though the oak forests. The atmosphere is very peaceful and reflective and gives me time and to contemplate things a little more. How will I be when I finish this Camino? What will be my state of mind about going back to work afterwards?

    Then we reach the first glimpse of the monastery. It is a spectacular sight from above and upon reaching the town it monopolises the view and every photographers attention. It’s history goes back many centuries and we take the opportunity to take a tour. Our guide is Spanish but is happy for one of the pilgrims to translate for the English speakers. Sad to think that there are only 9 monks left in this huge place and many of them are over 80. Fire routed the monastry in the 50’s but there have been a great effort to restore it – though much of the art work has been lost.

    After our tour, it’s the afternoon routine – check in, freshen up, have a look around and find someplace to refuel. Samos is a lovely little village and seems quite peaceful. We don’t have trouble find an early dinner – and prepared and cooked by a delightful lady who seemed so pleased to be serving us. This is something that we all should take note of – service before reception. The meal was rustic but hearty and went down well with a cold beer.

    Mass was in the monastery and the pilgrim’s blessing followed. They are always special as the pilgrim’s are made to feel so important. Well at least I did.


  9. Day 37 – O Cebreiro to Triacastela – Islands in the Sky – 20.7km

    May 23, 2023 by gerryv

    After yesterday’s climb, we are bouyed to know that descent down to Triacastela is not to be feared. It proves to be a gradual one through the mountain pastures and small villages – although the distance is a little challenging and there are a couple of short rises just to keep the heart pumping. Couldn’t just be easy, could it?

    But we are treated to a glorious sunrise and a dense fog in the valleys below. It gives the impression that the hills poking above the fog are little islands in a sea.

    As we descend through the fog, the mood on the path is somewhat eerie yet comforting. Not sure why – just like it I suppose. But soon the fog lifts and it is a beautiful day for the rest of today’s journey. We walk through some old and interesting villages, are fed by generous grandmothers, make some interesting friends and enjoy a quiet ale at the finish.

    Another awesome day.


  10. Day 36 – Vega to O Cebreiro – Last Hill – 12.4km

    May 22, 2023 by gerryv

    After spending the night in this delightful and surprising little village, its not so early morning start for a significant ascent to O Cebreiro. This is the last of the 3 big climbs on the Camino and thankfully there will be no difficult or steep descent tomorrow.

    The climb is broken into 3 stages and with a short rest at each, there are no issues. The body seems to have made the necessary adjustments to fitness and heart rate recovery over the last 35 days, so the challenge is relatively easy. The views are awesome and can only add to the splendour of this journey. Taking a moment to stop and admire the splendour is heart lifting and truly rewarding.

    Once at O Cebreiro, the number of people doing a Camino this year really hits home. The village is relative small and very tight. So the numbers entering the town are all crammed into a relatively tight spot. Everyone looking for a beer and an early lunch, before moving on. We are happy just to check in, freshen up and go for a wander to explore this quaint village.

    The Parish Priest of O Cebreiro, Don Elias Valina Sampedro, had the idea that the WAY needed to be clearly marked som that pilgrims wouldn’t wander off and get lost. His idea to mark the way with yellow arrows was taken up and soon the whole Camino is way marked with them. The Camino has experienced a great revival since then due to pilgrims being able to find their way more easily. His final resting place is O Cebreiro. The evening mass and pilgrims’ blessing that night was a special treat.


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